Category Archives: Oud Oil Reviews

Kambodi Kadeem: Old-School Cambodian Oud

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Ensar Oud’s Kambodi Kadeem is a special old-school Cambodi that has become my first choice for Cambodian Oud oil. A testament to the art and nuances of distillation, Kambodi Kadeem was crafted to capture the truest vintage Cambodi aroma–the aroma that defines “Cambodi”. For the sake of comparison, Ensar sent me a sample vial of a Cambodian Oud oil from 1976. I have found that Kambodi Kadeem is a true testament to this beautifully aged old-school Cambodian oil. In this review, I will compare the two oils, as I unravel the true Cambodi scent.

Kambodi Kadeem opens with a sweet woody note with dark ripe berries swirling in the midst. The initial aroma is somewhat mossy and possesses an “allure” and “lift” that reminds me of animal fixatives. It is a piercing, sharp, and very clear fragrance–the signs of a mature well-harvested tree and a finely aged oil. Each note is discernible and yet fully integrated into the whole of the aroma. Minutes later, a more pungent base note begins to show its colors. The top note teases tart. As a whole, the aroma is juicy and delectable, you want to keep breathing it in, receiving wave after aromatic wave. On the wrist, it has nice sillage, much more than I expected. It also has excellent tenacity and will not even enter the dry down phase for quite a while.

What really strikes me about Kambodi Kadeem is that the fruity notes are well-balanced. This is perhaps the first time I have smelled such a balance of fruit notes in a Cambodian oil. KK has those dark unctuous jam-like tones, but it is incredibly sophisticated about it. The vibe of this oil is at once luxurious and sophisticated, gentlemanly and vintage. Many Cambodian oils have a fruity aroma that is a bit untamed–it jumps out with a kind of excitement and overpowers the more subtle aromas present in the oil. But KK has a smooth and soft appeal. It is a finished product and boasts its aromatic integration with a regal flair. This is an Oud oil that is friendly to the Western palate, and also suitable for the most formal occasions. Rarely have I encountered both qualities in a single Oud oil. Indian oils are too pungent for social occasions and best utilized alone (at least in the US), and most Cambodian oils are too fruity for my taste. I feel funny wearing such a fruity fragrance in formal settings. In other words, Kambodi Kadeem has some real style–it is waiting to make you feel suave.

The dry down is equally as intriguing as the opening notes. This oil has a beautiful finish on the skin that I cannot quite describe. All of the woody, pungent, fruity notes blend together to create something new that has the most subtle hints of fine leather. An intoxciating and beautiful fragrance, Kambodi Kadeem is at once strong and delicate, earthy and flowery, old-school and completely new.

The 1976 Cambodi is one of the most beautiful Oud oils I have had the pleasure to smell. For me, it ranks with Oud Sultani. One thing I cannot emphasize enough about the ’76 Cambodi is age. The age of this oil gives it a unique quality and power, a maturity and depth of aroma that I have only smelled in the original Oud Royale from ’82. All of you private collectors out there: if you have any doubts about how well your Oud oil will age or if it will even significantly improve in the coming years, let me tell you that it most certainly will! Alongside giving me a peek into the history of Cambodian Oud, the ’76 Cambodi also shows me the true potential of aging Oud oil–the true meaning of “vintage”. It is this vintage quality in the oil that is so intoxicating. In terms of aroma, the scent is similar to Kambodi Kadeem in its balance, its subtleties, its utter sophistication. This oil reminds me of deer musk a bit and a little of Chinese Exclusive as well. Altogether, this oil is in a class of its own–I will be most curious to see how Kambodi Kadeem develops over the next 40 years! In terms of aroma, vibe, and quality the two oils are strikingly similar. A good nose will be able to smell KK’s future. But, in the present moment, there is no way to fairly compare two oils with such a tremendous age difference!

I can very clearly smell the “mood” of old-school Cambodis in both of these oils. I find it remarkable that KK even resembles the ’76 Cambodi as much as it does. The distillation of KK deserves some attention and appreciation on the part of connoisseurs. On the page for KK, Ensar has links for a 10-part series that shows the making of Kambodi Kadeem. I highly encourage everyone to watch these and witness the amount of work that goes into producing oils of this stature. Commendable and inspiring–my hat is off to Ensar Oud on this one.

Oud Nuh For Sale

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Dear readers,

I am selling my one and only bottle of the legendary Oud Nuh, released by Ensar Oud some years ago now. It has always had a unique place in my collection for its uncanny blend of regional profiles–sweet, pungent, bold, woody. See my original review of this oil here: Oud Nuh review.

The purchase of this oil will go to my medical schooling, which is the only reason why I am letting go of the oil. In my opinion, this oil is a true classic, something to be remembered for years still to come. I would rather not let it go, but I hope the lucky buyer will appreciate its uniqueness.

The following photographs of the oil in its original bottle should be sufficient for anyone curious about oil volume. There is some oil hardended around the neck of the bottle. This is natural for these type of bottles–I can either leave this on or remove it for the future buyer. Let it be known that the hardened oil is still oil and deliciously aromatic! Lightly used, mostly full bottle, I only wore it a few times.

$2500.

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Oud Mostafa (No. 4)

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MostafaWhen I received a sample vial in the mail labeled “Oud Mostafa“, I thought it must have been a mistake. Why was Ensar sending me a sample of the legendary and long sold-out Oud Mostafa? He knows I have a full bottle–and I have already reviewed the oil and proclaimed it as one of my favorites for some time now. It was atypical of Ensar to make a mistake, to mislabel, or to just arbitrarily throw in a sample of an old oil. When I opened the vial to smell the oil, it was unmistakably similar to Oud Mostafa, which made me even more doubtful that the vial was mislabeled. I began to postulate that perhaps Ensar had extra Oud Mostafa and that he was just throwing it in for fun. There was nothing on the surface of the scent that distinguished it from the Oud Mostafa I have known and loved all these years.

Finally, I wrote Ensar an email expressing my bewilderment about this sample vial. He gave me a simple reply that it was actually a new Oud Mostafa. A new Oud Mostafa? I thought. You have to be kidding me.

Now, I opened the sample vial with an entirely new sense of vigor and wonder. I applied it to my skin and smelled its evolution over the next few hours. Right off the bat, it was clear to me that this oil had the signature Oud Mostafa scent: a pungent resinous aroma that wafts like incense smoke with the smell of mature ripe fruits floating atop, and a barely detectable but still tangible sweetness beneath. What I love most about the original Oud Mostafa is how sharp, penetrating, and diffuse the aroma is. In Mostafa No. 4, I found that exact sharpness, that same penetrating resinous pungency with ripe fruits that I had only known in the original.

I never would have guessed that this was not an Indian oil, until I saw Ensar’s formal launch of the oil with a description of its Cambodian origin! As if I had not been puzzled enough, this was the icing on the cake! Here I was enjoying the inexplicable similarities between Mostafa No. 4 and the original, and all the while, it is a Cambodian oil!

I decided I had to spend some time with this oil. However, even after having worn it many times, my conclusions and sense of the oil are still the same as when I first opened the sample vial. This oil possesses the signature aroma of Oud Mostafa–a synergy of notes coupled with an intensity, sharpness, and tenacity that I have not found in any other oils. I am, of course, ecstatic to have found all of these qualities duplicated in Mostafa No. 4, and with its own unique twist.

I will make a bold statement here and express my feeling that Mostafa No. 4 actually outdoes the original Mostafa in some aspects. It has a sweetness and balance to its funk that make it more wearable, refined, and elegant. The original Oud Mostafa is a real blast of a smell–it is the primal agarwood aroma, the scent that satiates, embodies, and exemplifies the purest and most intoxicating agarwood aroma. But I do not wear it too often. Why? Certainly I find myself in the classic dilemma of revering the oil to the degree that I do not want to deplete my one and only bottle too quickly. More significantly, I find Oud Mostafa to be overpoweringly pungent, and it has such strong sillage that I cannot really wear it too often, because I know its pungency will reach the nostrils of everyone around me–and not only that, it will leave a trail wherever I go! It is an oil to be enjoyed in solitude more than anything else.

In Oud Mostafa No. 4, we have a very wearable scent that still possesses my favorite notes from the original. For one, it is quite remarkable to me that this oil smells like the original. It is distilled from entirely different raw materials that are even from a different region. I honestly cannot account for what I smell in this case, and simply take it to be an example of true artistry. Another unique aspect of Mostafa No. 4 is that after a while, I can really smell the wood that went into this oil. I start to perceive the aroma of a densely resinated Oud chip being brought to my nose–the delectable resinous sweet depthful aroma that no one can really describe in its fullness. In this oil, the smell of Oud wood is truly exquisite, and it expresses itself with such finesse. In some sense, Mostafa No. 4 has a delicacy and balance that is not in its original predecessor. The original simply has more of a masculine and yang intensity, while Mostafa No. 4 shows a yin equanimity.

I’m very impressed with this oil. I don’t know how it ended up being so similar to the original Mostafa, but I’m quite happy about it, especially since it is only $350! I always regretted not buying a second bottle of the original, but now I can finally shed that regret. The original Mostafa was distilled from incense-grade wood from 80yr old wild trees. Mostafa No. 4 was distilled from cultivated incense-grade wood from Cambodia. How these two share the similarities they do will always be a mystery to me–but one that I happily embrace with each swipe of this oil. Having written this review, I still feel as though I’ve been modest in my expression of what this oil has to offer. It may be one of Ensar’s best distillations to date for its integration, balance, equanimity, and rich scent profile. Besides the original Oud Mostafa and Oud Sulaiman, I have never smelled this synergy of notes in another oil.

I also want to say that as a rule I never read Ensar’s descriptions of the oil before writing my own. This is because I do not want any descriptions influencing my mind and unconsciously filtering into my own writing. I saw that Ensar had released this oil, and I scrolled down far enough past the old description to see that it was Cambodian and then I closed my browser, mouth agape! I will now read the full story behind this oil and see if my nose has led me in the right direction or not…

Borneo 50K

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Borneo50KLovers of the legendary Borneo 3000 and Borneo Kinam have reason to rejoice with the release of Borneo 50K — a classy Borneo oil that combines elements of both oils with its own unique twists.

Borneo 50K opens with elegant displays of honey and vanilla top notes that ride above a rich and resinous woodiness. Upon first swiping the oil, I was reminded of the rich, creamy, and balsamic-woody fragrance of some of the best vintage Mysore Sandalwood. It is an aroma that sparkles and glistens on your skin, hovering its aroma above your wrists, tingling with life and indescribable aromatic textures.

The honeyed-vanilla-sweetness begins to fuse with the woodier tones, creating a beautiful earthy aroma that also reveals more of Borneo 50K’s resinous core. At this stage, the oil reminds me a lot of Mitti Attar with its sweet earthy notes.

This oil is definitely unique among Borneos I’ve smelled. It is somewhere in between the aroma of Borneo Kinam and Borneo 3000. The vanilla is much more balanced and integrated than in Borneo 3000, and the sweetness is not as sharp. Its sparkling woodiness is reminiscent of Borneo Kinam, but it is not quite as woody as Kinam. Somewhere in between, with some vintage Mysore and Mitti Attar mixed in, there is an aromatic approximation of Borneo 50K. As for the mintiness Ensar describes in the official description of the oil, I have to say that it is perceptible as a kind of surrounding aroma, radiating at the edges of the fragrance’s core. It is a pristine herbaceousness that makes you feel “clean”, as if you are standing in the depths of a rainforest after a fresh rain.

But that is not saying much for the experience of wearing it. As a fragrance, it is incredibly smooth — perhaps the smoothest Borneo I have worn so far. I swiped it in the morning. It is now evening and Borneo 50K remains nicely perceptible on my wrist. I can’t say whether or not it outlasts previous Borneo releases since I have not conducted a simultaneous comparison yet, but I am certainly pleased with its longevity.

Expectedly, Borneo 50K is not very diffuse. However, unlike other Borneo oils, Borneo 50K is noticeably less “airy”, exuding a surprisingly grounding feel. I find that I really enjoy this aspect of 50K because it is something not found in other Borneo oils in my collection.

Borneo 50K has a lot to offer as a fragrance — and, like all fantastic Oud oils, is as much of  an aesthetic experience as it is an aromatic one.A complex fragrance with real aromatic depth and subtle nuance, 50K offers a scent that will not be totally “familiar” to Borneo lovers. For collectors, I would say there is no reason to hesitate in buying this oil. For someone looking for a great Borneo oil because they love Borneo oils and can’t stand the Indian funk, then Borneo 50K is a worthy addition to your collection. I personally wasn’t sure how different or unique the fragrance would really be in light of previous (now legendary) Borneo releases. But now I can say that 50K does offer virtues entirely of its own that are sure to be appreciated by those who come experience its aroma.

All of this said, I have only begun to explore the oil. I hope what I have written here will be useful for those curious about the oil, but I expect to discover much more in future wearings.

Oudimentary: Super Assam, Thai Super, Thai Old

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Since Oudimentary is having a summer sale with everything marked down 25%, I’ve been getting requests to finish my review of their Oud oils. So here we go:

 

 

Super Assam

Super Assam

Super Assam. When it comes to Indian Oud, I never know what to expect. There is such a diversity of fragrance when it comes to Oud from this region. Super Assam is a brown-reddish colored oil with decent viscosity. In its opening, the oil wastes no time in expressing that classic Indian funk–but not for too long. The funkiness is not very potent. It is more of a sharp top note that soon merges into the body of the oil. This oil does not have a “fecal” or even a very strong “barnyard” aroma. Instead, imagine woods and hay with notes of dry tobacco, chocolate undertones, and a hint of fruit. But it is the woodiness of Super Assam that stands out to me. I think the oil is likely distilled from the Assam chips that Oudimentary offers, because the oil smells identical to those chips. At its core, it is a woody aroma paired with the smell of sweet hay, accented with cinnamon. With Super Assam, I really enjoy the dry down of the oil the most. It is not as diffuse as other Indian oils I have worn, but it does have excellent tenacity. Super Assam would blend beautifully in a  perfume because it lacks an overpowering aroma while presenting clean notes of wood and hay. For $187.50/3ml, it is the cheapest Indian Oud I have smelled that is still good quality. I would consider using it in my perfumes and also wearing it when I’m in the mood for an Indian oil that is not too loud and fecal.

Thai Super opens with a sweet woodiness that immediately draws me in. Characteristic mineraly Thai notes. Slightly fruity, but mostly sweet. The woodiness is very nice and captures something of the smell of burning Oud chips. This is one of Oudimentary’s higher quality distillations, to my nose. Moderately diffuse with an average tenacity, but it makes for a nice wear.

 

Thai Old

Thai Old

Thai Old stands in contrast to Thai Super, immediately exhibiting peppery notes amidst tobacco leaf. It is much more lively than Thai Super. Thai Old’s cigar-like aroma carries itself quite well, making for a more diffuse aroma with a moderate tenacity. Notes of fruit mingle in the body lending some complexity to the aroma. This oil is also an organic distillation. It is hard to choose between Thai Old and Thai Super. Thai Super certainly has a more mature aroma and its woody notes are beautiful. But Thai Old has a little more kick. It depends what you are in the mood for. They are both good Thai oils, although I no longer see Thai Super available on the Oudimentary website. At $74.25 for 3ml, Thai Old gets the award for the most affordable Oud oil of good quality.

Oudimentary Cambodis: Tuk-Kmum, Special, Pa-em

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Cambodi Pa-em

Cambodi Pa-em

I have finally had the chance to try Oudimentary’s line of Oud oils–and I must say that I am quite pleased with the quality of their oils. In this review, I want to focus on their three Cambodian offerings: Cambodi Tuk-Kmum, Cambodi Special, and Cambodi Pa-em.

Cambodi Tuk-Kmum is a very sticky orange colored oil. It possesses a light and syrupy-sweet aroma that is strong in the mid-range. Characteristic notes of fruit mingle in the background without becoming too prominent or sharp. While it is not very diffuse, it does have a nice tenacity, maintaining its aroma quite well throughout the day. The oil has a wonderful sweetness, a clear sparkling aroma of honey mixed with maple syrup, all rounded together in a smooth and almost balsamic aroma. Cambodi Tuk-Kmum smells great, wears nicely, and feels good on a nice summer day. It reminds me a lot of Agar Aura’s Sylvan Nectar, for those who have tried that oil. On their website, Oudimentary notes that “Tuk-Kmum” is Khmer for “honey”. A most appropriate name for this oil! $200/3ml.

Cambodi Special has much more of a characteristic Thai profile. Zesty mineral notes beneath a light airiness with a subtle fruity aroma meandering in the background. Those who are familiar with the recent organic Thai releases will find much to enjoy in Cambodi Special. Bolder and woodier than Tuk-Kmum, lovers of Thai Oud will definitely enjoy this oil for only $99/3ml.

Cambodi Pa-em is my favorite of Oudimentary’s Cambodian offerings. It is, in my opinion, their highest quality Cambodian oil. Pa-em is another sticky and amber colored oil. It greets me with the smell of fresh fruits. After a few minutes, the fruity notes become riper and darker, resembling the grapey and almost wine-like aroma that I find in Cambodi Caramel. The dry-down is a beautiful woodiness that is punctuated with the classic Cambodian top note that almost smells Marokean. Pa-em is sweet but also spicy, with notes of dry tobacco, nutmeg, and chocolate. There is even a vetiver-esque grassiness lurking in this oil. Most of all, Pa-em is aromatically complex, deep, and lively. It has a complexity I rarely encounter in oils of this price range, which makes it really stand out to me. For $200/3ml, I highly recommend this oil.

I have really enjoyed wearing these oils and getting to know their wonderful aromas. Much gratitude to the Oudimentary team for the samples. I have to congratulate them on producing pure and quality Oud oils at a seriously affordable price. These days everyone is searching for “affordable Oud”, a phrase and endeavor that is essentially an anomaly. While I usually discourage this search, I have to say that I believe that Oudimentary is producing “affordable Oud”. These oils are cheaper than the usual oils on the market, but unlike other affordable Oud oils, there is not a significant drop in quality accompanying the drop in price.

The Oudimentary team is comprised of old-fashioned Oud lovers. If you haven’t checked out their oils yet, do yourself a favor and get some samples.

Coming soon are reviews of Oudimentary’s Thai Super, Thai Old, Tarakan, and Super Assam.

Bois de Borneo: Organic Oud From Borneo

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BoisDeBorneoBois de Borneo. Finally an organic Borneo Oud! I have been waiting for this for a while now. I always want to use some Borneo Oud in my perfumes–but when my Borneo collection consists of vintage oils that originally cost around $500, I begin to have second thoughts. At $350, Bois de Borneo offers a more affordable price-tag than its legendary predecessors and may solve my perfumery dilemmas. But more importantly, how does it smell?

Bois de Borneo is a classic Borneo oil. Sweet, smooth, and sensual, Bois de Borneo quickly meets my expectations for a quality Borneo Oud oil. Light but tenacious, this oil wears nicely on my skin with its aroma still perceptible hours later.

Bois de Borneo opens with the most pronounced and sensual vanilla note I have smelled in a Borneo oil so far. For a while, all I can smell and think is vanilla. But rather than being a nice accent or top note, the vanilla odor surrounds and pervades the body of the fragrance, enriching it from inside out, top to bottom. The fragrance of vanilla is so clear and persistent that it is even comparable to smelling a bottle of vanilla oleoresin or absolute.

Paired with this now-balmy vanilla aroma is the amazing sweetness that lends Borneo Oud its popularity. Bois de Borneo passes the sweetness test with flying colors, becoming one of the sweetest Borneo oils I have smelled. I find its aroma to be surprisingly addicting with great allure.

In the dry down, this oil reveals a more woody character, as a note of cedarwood begins to emerge. The woodiness seems to sparkle in this oil. I particularly like the way the woody tones come to life in the dry down phase, without dropping any of the sweetness from earlier. Instead, the fragrance fuses together as it unfolds. The honeyed-sweetness sits on top of a fresh earthiness that is not too pronounced. It is the subtle fragrance of the outdoors just after a rain. Imagine blending a few drops of Mitti Attar in a Borneo oil and you can approximate the aroma. Moist, somewhat grassy, and earthy-sweet. The earthy element of Bois de Borneo is definitely a unique and welcome twist.

A pleasure from start to finish, Bois de Borneo is perfect for a hot summer day and has a noticeable uplifting effect. With their smooth airiness and sweet aroma, I’ve always found Borneo oils to be an almost immediate mood enhancer. And Bois de Borneo is one of the first oils I’ll reach for on a summer morning. I can even see myself swiping this oil more than once on any given day.

While some may wonder how this oil compares to more legendary releases such as Borneo Kinam and Borneo 3000, I must say that Bois de Borneo deserves to be smelled in its own right. What I can say is that Bois de Borneo has a very well-developed aroma that holds its own quite well.

Bois de Borneo is the first organic Borneo Oud I have seen, but I certainly hope there is more to come. I hardly find much merit in making organic/wild distinctions anymore, because these organic Oud oils are every bit as enjoyable as the wild vintage oils in my collection. In fact, there is an aspect of the organic oils that I enjoy even more, because they are cheaper, and a step toward sustainability and right cultivation. When I smell a vintage oil, I know I am smelling the past and the last of its kind. But organic oils impart a feeling of hope for the future of agarwood. With the devastation of wild agarwood trees in Borneo, I am relieved to see an organic distillation of such quality. May there be many more oils like this one!

Pulau Maluku: Papua Meets Borneo

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Pulau MalukuWhen I first swiped Agar Aura’s Pulau Maluku, I thought I was smelling an oil from Maroke, only to have my senses puzzled a few seconds later as I began to perceive a full-blown Borneo profile.

This strangely beautiful juxtaposition of scent profiles is what sets Pulau Maluku apart from other Oud oils, with its geographical roots being a perfect mirror for its fragrance. It was only after applying the oil a few times that I realized that Maluku, an island in Indonesia, is located exactly between Borneo and Papua. Mystery solved!

Map of Indonesia

Map of Indonesia

This is the first oil from Maluku that I have come across so far. I am not aware of any other quality distillations from Maluku wood at this time, making Pulau Maluku a very unique and special offering. I love the dark, jungly, and pristine aspects of Papuan oils, and I also love the bright and sweet aspects of Borneo oils. In my opinion, Oud oils from these two regions stand in contrast to one another, and I have never really associated them with one another in any way, until I smelled Pulau Maluku.

The oil opens with Papuan notes–jungly, dense, herbaceous. For a moment, I have no reason to think I am smelling anything else, despite the fragrance being noticeably lighter than the Papuan oils I am so used to. When my nose returns to my wrist again, I realize there is something else going on here, as the fragrance begins to rapidly morph. The Papuan elements quickly become luscious undertones for a fragrance that is now beginning to express the most recognizable Borneo notes.

Soon I have forgotten the jungles and am entranced in a rapture of one of the most pristine and balmy vanilla notes. The vanilla is very pronounced, more pronounced than in other Borneo oils in my collection. Maluku starts to smell like a Borneo stripped of its base–sensual, smooth, suave, and beautifully light-hearted. Pulau Maluku beautifully captures the ethereal aspect of Borneo oils with stunning accuracy and clarity.

Vanilla

Vanilla bean

With the oil singing on my wrist, I am again lost in a vine of vanilla beans. So much vanilla. It is not that it smells like vanilla, it is nearly identical to putting your nose in a bottle of vanilla extract–but without the concentration, and much more velvety.

As the fragrance approaches its dry down phase, the Papuan elements make a re-appearance, and this time to stay. Undertones of mineral, resin, and fresh jungle support the sweet and airy base of Pulau Maluku, making it one of the more impressive Oud oils I have had the opportunity to experience. More remarkable is that the fragrance of burning Oud chips–the mark of high quality Papuan oils–begins to come into focus, drawing the finishing stroke of a wonderful composition.

Pulau Maluku is a classic stainless steel distillation. Regarding the raw materials used, Taha said to me in a personal communication, “Feedstock for Pulau Maluku was collected from trees that are quite possibly the oldest of ALL ouds that you and I have ever come across.”

I must congratulate him in distilling the first Maluku Oud oil of this quality that I have found, and in offering such a high quality distillation. Additionally, the oil has great longevity and sillage on my skin, a surprisingly nice kick for a “light” oil.

Unfortunately (and expectedly) Pulau Maluku is sold out. But this is an oil worth tracking down in private collections, if you get the chance. On a related note, for anyone curious about Maluku wood, check out Olfactory Rescue Service’s post here.

Encens Imperial

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EncensImperial

Encens Imperial is the most unusual Indian Oud I have smelled so far. The fragrance catches me off guard when it opens with a very potent top note. As the opening aroma meets my nose, I am greeted with an incredibly strong and crystalline aroma that smells almost medicinal and that is initially off-putting. By describing it as “medicinal”, I am intending to convey something of its potency, depth, and healing potential, as well as its “concentrated” aroma. After all, Oud has been used as medicine in the ancient healing traditions of the East–and when I smell a note like this, I remember why. It is one of the strongest notes I have encountered in an Oud oil so far.

This mysterious crystalline note is shrouded by a more traditional Indian aroma of sweet hay and woods, and a gentle barnyard tease. But as I smell my wrist over and over again, it is that top note that I am constantly reaching for. And it is quite playful–sometimes elusive, and at other times floating at the top, or sinking underneath the base notes, only to be found in the last seconds of the inhalation. As the fragrance unfolds, I realize that this mysterious “top note” actually pervades the aroma, top to bottom.

Within minutes, I am addicted to the singing clarity of Encens Imperial. It is an Indian Oud that possesses the clarity, beauty, and sensuality of the finest Borneo Ouds without sacrificing its Indian roots. Usually with Indian Oud, the woods, the hay, the resin, all of it mixes together into a “thick” fragrance. Yet Encens Imperial maintains a smooth, water-like clarity, without compromising any tenacity or potency.

In the official description for Encens Imperial, Ensar writes:

There might be no Kyara in Assam. But only in Assam do you find Muana, a heart note of serenity not even Kyara can capture, and just as rare. You might have smelled it when burning crazy-grade Assam wood chips, but pick it up in an oud oil… this is a first.

So what is Muana? It is hard for me to say exactly what Ensar means by using this term. In my own feeling, Muana is the defining aroma of Encens Imperial. It is that mysterious crystalline note at the heart of Encens Imperial that will puzzle your olfactory sensibilities. In its opening, it is the clearest top note I have ever smelled in an Indian Oud. As it wears, it dances and blends into the woodier undertones, and I’m smelling highly-resinated Oud chips on my wrist. This is my best guess as to what Muana refers to.

In the drydown, Encens Imperial emerges as more of a unified composition. Everything has integrated, revealing a deep and resinous profile, with accents of spice and a defined woodiness. The end result? The intoxicating aroma of incense-grade Indian Oud chips on your wrist.

Oud as incense has been the theme and goal of Ensar’s most recent releases. He has been emphasizing the true goal of Oud distillation as Oud oil that smells like incense. By incense, I feel he means a purity of scent. And Encens Imperial certainly fits into that category with its clear piercing aroma.

Ensar’s Indian Oud oils are undeniably his most diverse offerings–each one is a world of its own. So far, I have yet to smell any two that are similar. I think back to Legends such as Oud Mostafa and Oud Nuh. Encens Imperial is not the bottle I personally would reach for when I want to wear an Indian Oud. It is not as smooth and balanced as some of Ensar’s other Indian oils. Rather, Encens Imperial is an Oud I would save more for medicinal or meditative use. Assam lovers will find something very atypical in Encens Imperial, as it smells nothing like my other Assam oils. I almost forgot it was from Assam.

Clear, beautiful, and potent enough to be healing–Encens Imperial is an oil for the adventurous to explore.

But Muana doesn’t end with Encens Imperial, as I recently received a sample of an unreleased oil called “Muana LTD”…

Royal Assam

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Royal AssamAgarAura’s Royal Assam is an unusual Assam Oud. It does not possess the density and tenacity of your usual Indian Oud, nor the creamy profile of Meghalayan Oud. Rather, Royal Assam exhibits clear, almost airy notes,  and a pleasant, pronounced woodiness. On top of the woody heart note are fruity notes that are subtler than say your typical Cambodian or Thai oil, while certainly adding sweetness to the profile. As the clarity and woody-fruity tones melt together, a unique Oud fragrance begins to emerge.

Mixed with the fruity top notes, the woodiness attains a sweetness reminiscent of cedarwood. But underneath the cedarwood lies a slight barnyard twinge–the only aspect of the oil that confesses its Assamese origins.

If someone told me this was a distillation of Crassna wood–I would believe them. In fact, I have smelled Crassna oils that have more of a barnyard element than Royal Assam. If someone told me that this was a co-distillation of Crassna and Malaccensis wood, then I would also believe them–because there is a lightness to Royal Assam that is uncharacteristic of both Indian and Cambodian/Thai oils.

However, in Royal Assam, Indian Oud lovers have found yet another interesting distillation from Aquilaria Agallocha to add to their collection. This oil is perfect for those days when you really want to wear an Indian Oud, but do not want everyone to pick up on those fecal and barnyard notes that you secretly love. This is a very balanced oil that one can find simple and easy enjoyment in wearing. It is not as overpowering as your typical Assam Oud, not as light as Borneo Oud, and not as sweet and fruity as a Cambodian/Thai oil. Royal Assam strikes a beautiful median, making it one of the more wearable Indian Ouds I have smelled.

But lovers of Assam Oud should also be aware that Royal Assam will not satisfy their deepest cravings for a funky Indian Oud. If you want a fragrance that epitomizes the classic Assam fragrance, then I would recommend Assam Organic. If you are not yet a fan of Assam Oud, then Royal Assam will give you a light introduction by which to gauge your tastes. But if you are a connoisseur and love to collect all the different types of precious Oud distillations, then Royal Assam is worth adding to your collection.

As Taha describes, there was no soaking involved in the distillation. The lack of fermentation prior to distillation explains the lack of fecal and barnyard notes. He also describes the use of pure drinking water rather than ground water. And this tweak is actually what I notice the most in terms of the oil’s scent profile. It is why Royal Assam smells so clean and even watery.

Royal Assam is a modern-day Indian Oud, whose wild and rough edges have been tamed and smoothed, producing one of the more wearable Indian Ouds I have come across so far. As with all Oud oils, age will only improve Royal Assam, and I look forward to seeing how this oil develops.

Currently available for $375, 2.5g.