Kyara Koko

Kyara KokohA new and yet-to-be-released parfum from Ensar Oud, Kyara Koko is beautifully rich, warm, and sensuous. The name is a clear allusion to the famous Baieido Incense, “Kyara Kokoh“–20 sticks of which currently sell for $829.50. Does the perfume live up to the incense by the same name? You will have to see for yourself! I have actually not burned Baiedo’s Kyara Kokoh before, but in light of this perfume, I will have to check it out and see how it compares.

Koko opens with a velvety texture of animalic notes that turn sweet before you can find the funk. As the parfum begins to expand, its complexity unravels. With such intricacy and nuance, I suspect that many different oils were used in Koko’s composition, yet not a single one stands out individually. Having made a few perfumes myself, I  can appreciate the artistry in crafting a perfume that confidently boasts a single fragrance–the alchemy of a new scent, rather than an amalgamation of various scents. If I had to compare Kyara Koko to another oil, I would say that it reminds me of Amulya Attar. Amulya Attar is the most complex perfume I have smelled, composed of over 60 ingredients, mostly focused on precious Indian florals. But as with Kyara Koko, its core aroma is completely unique, unified, and intoxicating.

I have little to say about the ingredients used in Kyara Koko, because they are largely undetectable to me as individual components. Rather, Koko radiates a whole fragrance,  a sweet-spicy Oudiness with civet-like undertones. The end result is a deliciously incensey fragrance. Incense lovers really have much to look forward to in this perfume. In terms of color, think purple. Deep purple. For an Oud-based perfume, I find that Koko beautifully expresses its Oudiness while also blending in well, making for a deliciously smooth and well-rounded fragrance.

What also stands out to me in Kyara Koko is its tenacity. It may be the most tenacious perfume I have smelled from Ensar Oud so far. Radiating on my wrist, Koko surrounds me in its fragrant aura. And I can smell its remnants on my wrist the next morning. I really love a perfume that can maintain itself like this. I have found myself addicted to this perfume as of late, discovering something else with each new wearing.

Kyara Koko is a full-bodied perfume of mystery and confidence, suitable for man or woman, and great to wear out in the evening. Its sensual and aristocratic vibe is sure to catch the attention of anyone who crosses its path.

Borneo Zen: A Musk Perfume

Borneo ZenWhen I first smelled Borneo Zen, I had no idea what I was smelling. There was so much about it that I could not put my finger on. At the time, I did not have the slightest clue that deer musk was its main ingredient. Instead, I mistook the civet base in Thai Tabac to be “musk”, until Ensar told me it is actually in Borneo Zen that he used musk, hence its higher price than the other parfums. 

Leave your synthetic “white” musk behind. It is nothing close to the sacred aroma of genuine deer musk. Most are accustomed to the somewhat harsh, persistent, and overpowering aroma of synthetic musk, such that it has permanently shaped their olfactory sense of what “musk” really is.

The true musk fragrance is far more delicate, elegant, sweet, floral, and beautiful than what the perfume industry would have you believe. It is at once evocative and calming, spiritual and carnal–a true paradox of a fragrance, it exhibits yin and yang in a balance I have not found in any other fragrance.

Borneo Zen is a true musk fragrance, the perfume of days past. Who makes perfumes like this anymore? This is a rare find, and I honestly would buy tolas of this oil if I could! This perfume ranks among one of the greatest fragrances I have ever smelled, even greater than some Oud oils.

Borneo Zen is a fragrance that should be worn at the beginning of the day, before you begin your day’s work. It has an irresistible liveliness, an incredible energy that you will feel running in your veins. Musk is a potent carrier of life-force, there is no doubt about it. It will invigorate you, ground you, revitalize you, and make you feel strong, inside and out. A swipe of Borneo Zen will give you the confidence, stamina, and joyful mood you need to get the day started on the right note. On the other hand, if you want to relax, Borneo Zen will lull you into the depths of sacred contemplation. Its power is of a subtle nature, its life-force will work for you however you desire to use it, whether it be for vital activity, or for meditation. The fragrance of musk is incredibly adaptable. It will rise and fall from yin to yang as needed.

The perfume is surprisingly sweet. The rose eventually harmonizes with the musk and creates a most exotic and uplifting sweet-rosy-musk aroma that you will not be able to get enough of. I have worn this perfume many times, and every time I wear it, I can hardly keep my nose away from my wrists. And I still haven’t gotten enough of that beautiful musky rosy aroma. But to really appreciate its sweetness, you have to realize the role of jasmine. And the fact that the ratios of all the oils are perfect, from base to middle to top. What a composition!

Many might wonder what the role of Oud is in this perfume. That is a good question. This perfume is by no means “Oudy”. Pink Papua is Oudy. Borneo Zen is musky. All I can think of and smell when I am wearing this oil is musk, musk, musk, and rose, with a token of gratitude to jasmine. Nonetheless, to connoisseurs who are familiar with the profile of Borneo Oud oil, you will be able to detect the lightness, sweetness, airiness, and overall ethereal quality that Oud brings to this perfume. It “shades” the perfume with its lightness and sweetness. It is not intended to be pronounced, to be obvious, to be sharp.

After all, perfume is alchemy. Ultimately, all the individual notes have undergone an incredible transformation. And musk is one of the greatest servants of this process. I do not know what has happened to the Oud in this perfume, except that it has melted into the fragrance, and given it that subtle touch of wonder and exaltation.

After a while, you will start to notice an amazing citrus note in this perfume. I asked Ensar if he had used any citrus oils, because it was so pronounced to me. In fact, I was sure he had used a small amount of some citrus. He confidently replied to me that there is, in fact, no citrus in Borneo Zen at all. It is all the doing of musk! Later, in his formal write-up of the oil on his website, he named this utterly unique citrus note “jasmarine”. And that’s it! That is exactly what it is. The citrus note is a wonderful and elegant surprise. It adds a shade of complexity and fullness to this perfume when it is most unexpected, giving it a unique flavor that makes it feel even more like a perfume.

This oil is irresistible. I feel as if I could wear it day after day without tiring of it. To my surprise, the aroma is so rich and other-wordly that I do not experience any olfactory fatigue. It is new with each breath, and even each breath does not seem to fully know the aroma. It reaches for more every time, but the fragrance remains ever-elusive. As owners of this perfume will find, musk also has quite a playful quality. It has a life of its own. And it will breathe its life into you, too.

Borneo Zen is already a classic in natural perfumery–in my book, at least. It is very well-composed. And its true essence is the sandalwood musk–whose role in perfumery cannot be underestimated. Do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of this perfume (or more if you can). It will keep you very good company throughout the day. It is a personal fragrance to me, not one I would necessarily wear for social reasons (though it is appropriate for all kinds of situations). What I am referring to is the fact that the perfume does not project much. It stays close to the skin. By “close to the skin”, I don’t mean you have to go to your wrist in order to smell it. The wearer will be nicely and effortlessly wrapped in its aroma. But others may not notice it unless you are rather close to them. If you want to be noticed, then be liberal in your swipes of this oil, and you will succeed. If you want to enjoy it yourself, one swipe is enough to keep you happy. But I doubt you’ll be able to resist swiping again later in the day. On my wrist, a single swipe lasts around 5-6 hours, just enough to make it until evening. Then you can decide if you want wind down with another swipe.

A truly rare and sacred fragrance, I highly recommended Borneo Zen to everyone.