Tag Archives: aloeswood

Borneo 50K

Posted on by
Reply

Borneo50KLovers of the legendary Borneo 3000 and Borneo Kinam have reason to rejoice with the release of Borneo 50K — a classy Borneo oil that combines elements of both oils with its own unique twists.

Borneo 50K opens with elegant displays of honey and vanilla top notes that ride above a rich and resinous woodiness. Upon first swiping the oil, I was reminded of the rich, creamy, and balsamic-woody fragrance of some of the best vintage Mysore Sandalwood. It is an aroma that sparkles and glistens on your skin, hovering its aroma above your wrists, tingling with life and indescribable aromatic textures.

The honeyed-vanilla-sweetness begins to fuse with the woodier tones, creating a beautiful earthy aroma that also reveals more of Borneo 50K’s resinous core. At this stage, the oil reminds me a lot of Mitti Attar with its sweet earthy notes.

This oil is definitely unique among Borneos I’ve smelled. It is somewhere in between the aroma of Borneo Kinam and Borneo 3000. The vanilla is much more balanced and integrated than in Borneo 3000, and the sweetness is not as sharp. Its sparkling woodiness is reminiscent of Borneo Kinam, but it is not quite as woody as Kinam. Somewhere in between, with some vintage Mysore and Mitti Attar mixed in, there is an aromatic approximation of Borneo 50K. As for the mintiness Ensar describes in the official description of the oil, I have to say that it is perceptible as a kind of surrounding aroma, radiating at the edges of the fragrance’s core. It is a pristine herbaceousness that makes you feel “clean”, as if you are standing in the depths of a rainforest after a fresh rain.

But that is not saying much for the experience of wearing it. As a fragrance, it is incredibly smooth — perhaps the smoothest Borneo I have worn so far. I swiped it in the morning. It is now evening and Borneo 50K remains nicely perceptible on my wrist. I can’t say whether or not it outlasts previous Borneo releases since I have not conducted a simultaneous comparison yet, but I am certainly pleased with its longevity.

Expectedly, Borneo 50K is not very diffuse. However, unlike other Borneo oils, Borneo 50K is noticeably less “airy”, exuding a surprisingly grounding feel. I find that I really enjoy this aspect of 50K because it is something not found in other Borneo oils in my collection.

Borneo 50K has a lot to offer as a fragrance — and, like all fantastic Oud oils, is as much of  an aesthetic experience as it is an aromatic one.A complex fragrance with real aromatic depth and subtle nuance, 50K offers a scent that will not be totally “familiar” to Borneo lovers. For collectors, I would say there is no reason to hesitate in buying this oil. For someone looking for a great Borneo oil because they love Borneo oils and can’t stand the Indian funk, then Borneo 50K is a worthy addition to your collection. I personally wasn’t sure how different or unique the fragrance would really be in light of previous (now legendary) Borneo releases. But now I can say that 50K does offer virtues entirely of its own that are sure to be appreciated by those who come experience its aroma.

All of this said, I have only begun to explore the oil. I hope what I have written here will be useful for those curious about the oil, but I expect to discover much more in future wearings.

Oudimentary: Super Assam, Thai Super, Thai Old

Posted on by
Reply

Since Oudimentary is having a summer sale with everything marked down 25%, I’ve been getting requests to finish my review of their Oud oils. So here we go:

 

 

Super Assam

Super Assam

Super Assam. When it comes to Indian Oud, I never know what to expect. There is such a diversity of fragrance when it comes to Oud from this region. Super Assam is a brown-reddish colored oil with decent viscosity. In its opening, the oil wastes no time in expressing that classic Indian funk–but not for too long. The funkiness is not very potent. It is more of a sharp top note that soon merges into the body of the oil. This oil does not have a “fecal” or even a very strong “barnyard” aroma. Instead, imagine woods and hay with notes of dry tobacco, chocolate undertones, and a hint of fruit. But it is the woodiness of Super Assam that stands out to me. I think the oil is likely distilled from the Assam chips that Oudimentary offers, because the oil smells identical to those chips. At its core, it is a woody aroma paired with the smell of sweet hay, accented with cinnamon. With Super Assam, I really enjoy the dry down of the oil the most. It is not as diffuse as other Indian oils I have worn, but it does have excellent tenacity. Super Assam would blend beautifully in a  perfume because it lacks an overpowering aroma while presenting clean notes of wood and hay. For $187.50/3ml, it is the cheapest Indian Oud I have smelled that is still good quality. I would consider using it in my perfumes and also wearing it when I’m in the mood for an Indian oil that is not too loud and fecal.

Thai Super opens with a sweet woodiness that immediately draws me in. Characteristic mineraly Thai notes. Slightly fruity, but mostly sweet. The woodiness is very nice and captures something of the smell of burning Oud chips. This is one of Oudimentary’s higher quality distillations, to my nose. Moderately diffuse with an average tenacity, but it makes for a nice wear.

 

Thai Old

Thai Old

Thai Old stands in contrast to Thai Super, immediately exhibiting peppery notes amidst tobacco leaf. It is much more lively than Thai Super. Thai Old’s cigar-like aroma carries itself quite well, making for a more diffuse aroma with a moderate tenacity. Notes of fruit mingle in the body lending some complexity to the aroma. This oil is also an organic distillation. It is hard to choose between Thai Old and Thai Super. Thai Super certainly has a more mature aroma and its woody notes are beautiful. But Thai Old has a little more kick. It depends what you are in the mood for. They are both good Thai oils, although I no longer see Thai Super available on the Oudimentary website. At $74.25 for 3ml, Thai Old gets the award for the most affordable Oud oil of good quality.

Oudimentary Cambodis: Tuk-Kmum, Special, Pa-em

Posted on by
1
Cambodi Pa-em

Cambodi Pa-em

I have finally had the chance to try Oudimentary’s line of Oud oils–and I must say that I am quite pleased with the quality of their oils. In this review, I want to focus on their three Cambodian offerings: Cambodi Tuk-Kmum, Cambodi Special, and Cambodi Pa-em.

Cambodi Tuk-Kmum is a very sticky orange colored oil. It possesses a light and syrupy-sweet aroma that is strong in the mid-range. Characteristic notes of fruit mingle in the background without becoming too prominent or sharp. While it is not very diffuse, it does have a nice tenacity, maintaining its aroma quite well throughout the day. The oil has a wonderful sweetness, a clear sparkling aroma of honey mixed with maple syrup, all rounded together in a smooth and almost balsamic aroma. Cambodi Tuk-Kmum smells great, wears nicely, and feels good on a nice summer day. It reminds me a lot of Agar Aura’s Sylvan Nectar, for those who have tried that oil. On their website, Oudimentary notes that “Tuk-Kmum” is Khmer for “honey”. A most appropriate name for this oil! $200/3ml.

Cambodi Special has much more of a characteristic Thai profile. Zesty mineral notes beneath a light airiness with a subtle fruity aroma meandering in the background. Those who are familiar with the recent organic Thai releases will find much to enjoy in Cambodi Special. Bolder and woodier than Tuk-Kmum, lovers of Thai Oud will definitely enjoy this oil for only $99/3ml.

Cambodi Pa-em is my favorite of Oudimentary’s Cambodian offerings. It is, in my opinion, their highest quality Cambodian oil. Pa-em is another sticky and amber colored oil. It greets me with the smell of fresh fruits. After a few minutes, the fruity notes become riper and darker, resembling the grapey and almost wine-like aroma that I find in Cambodi Caramel. The dry-down is a beautiful woodiness that is punctuated with the classic Cambodian top note that almost smells Marokean. Pa-em is sweet but also spicy, with notes of dry tobacco, nutmeg, and chocolate. There is even a vetiver-esque grassiness lurking in this oil. Most of all, Pa-em is aromatically complex, deep, and lively. It has a complexity I rarely encounter in oils of this price range, which makes it really stand out to me. For $200/3ml, I highly recommend this oil.

I have really enjoyed wearing these oils and getting to know their wonderful aromas. Much gratitude to the Oudimentary team for the samples. I have to congratulate them on producing pure and quality Oud oils at a seriously affordable price. These days everyone is searching for “affordable Oud”, a phrase and endeavor that is essentially an anomaly. While I usually discourage this search, I have to say that I believe that Oudimentary is producing “affordable Oud”. These oils are cheaper than the usual oils on the market, but unlike other affordable Oud oils, there is not a significant drop in quality accompanying the drop in price.

The Oudimentary team is comprised of old-fashioned Oud lovers. If you haven’t checked out their oils yet, do yourself a favor and get some samples.

Coming soon are reviews of Oudimentary’s Thai Super, Thai Old, Tarakan, and Super Assam.

Bois de Borneo: Organic Oud From Borneo

Posted on by
Reply

BoisDeBorneoBois de Borneo. Finally an organic Borneo Oud! I have been waiting for this for a while now. I always want to use some Borneo Oud in my perfumes–but when my Borneo collection consists of vintage oils that originally cost around $500, I begin to have second thoughts. At $350, Bois de Borneo offers a more affordable price-tag than its legendary predecessors and may solve my perfumery dilemmas. But more importantly, how does it smell?

Bois de Borneo is a classic Borneo oil. Sweet, smooth, and sensual, Bois de Borneo quickly meets my expectations for a quality Borneo Oud oil. Light but tenacious, this oil wears nicely on my skin with its aroma still perceptible hours later.

Bois de Borneo opens with the most pronounced and sensual vanilla note I have smelled in a Borneo oil so far. For a while, all I can smell and think is vanilla. But rather than being a nice accent or top note, the vanilla odor surrounds and pervades the body of the fragrance, enriching it from inside out, top to bottom. The fragrance of vanilla is so clear and persistent that it is even comparable to smelling a bottle of vanilla oleoresin or absolute.

Paired with this now-balmy vanilla aroma is the amazing sweetness that lends Borneo Oud its popularity. Bois de Borneo passes the sweetness test with flying colors, becoming one of the sweetest Borneo oils I have smelled. I find its aroma to be surprisingly addicting with great allure.

In the dry down, this oil reveals a more woody character, as a note of cedarwood begins to emerge. The woodiness seems to sparkle in this oil. I particularly like the way the woody tones come to life in the dry down phase, without dropping any of the sweetness from earlier. Instead, the fragrance fuses together as it unfolds. The honeyed-sweetness sits on top of a fresh earthiness that is not too pronounced. It is the subtle fragrance of the outdoors just after a rain. Imagine blending a few drops of Mitti Attar in a Borneo oil and you can approximate the aroma. Moist, somewhat grassy, and earthy-sweet. The earthy element of Bois de Borneo is definitely a unique and welcome twist.

A pleasure from start to finish, Bois de Borneo is perfect for a hot summer day and has a noticeable uplifting effect. With their smooth airiness and sweet aroma, I’ve always found Borneo oils to be an almost immediate mood enhancer. And Bois de Borneo is one of the first oils I’ll reach for on a summer morning. I can even see myself swiping this oil more than once on any given day.

While some may wonder how this oil compares to more legendary releases such as Borneo Kinam and Borneo 3000, I must say that Bois de Borneo deserves to be smelled in its own right. What I can say is that Bois de Borneo has a very well-developed aroma that holds its own quite well.

Bois de Borneo is the first organic Borneo Oud I have seen, but I certainly hope there is more to come. I hardly find much merit in making organic/wild distinctions anymore, because these organic Oud oils are every bit as enjoyable as the wild vintage oils in my collection. In fact, there is an aspect of the organic oils that I enjoy even more, because they are cheaper, and a step toward sustainability and right cultivation. When I smell a vintage oil, I know I am smelling the past and the last of its kind. But organic oils impart a feeling of hope for the future of agarwood. With the devastation of wild agarwood trees in Borneo, I am relieved to see an organic distillation of such quality. May there be many more oils like this one!

Kyara Koko

Posted on by
Reply

Kyara KokohA new and yet-to-be-released parfum from Ensar Oud, Kyara Koko is beautifully rich, warm, and sensuous. The name is a clear allusion to the famous Baieido Incense, “Kyara Kokoh“–20 sticks of which currently sell for $829.50. Does the perfume live up to the incense by the same name? You will have to see for yourself! I have actually not burned Baiedo’s Kyara Kokoh before, but in light of this perfume, I will have to check it out and see how it compares.

Koko opens with a velvety texture of animalic notes that turn sweet before you can find the funk. As the parfum begins to expand, its complexity unravels. With such intricacy and nuance, I suspect that many different oils were used in Koko’s composition, yet not a single one stands out individually. Having made a few perfumes myself, I  can appreciate the artistry in crafting a perfume that confidently boasts a single fragrance–the alchemy of a new scent, rather than an amalgamation of various scents. If I had to compare Kyara Koko to another oil, I would say that it reminds me of Amulya Attar. Amulya Attar is the most complex perfume I have smelled, composed of over 60 ingredients, mostly focused on precious Indian florals. But as with Kyara Koko, its core aroma is completely unique, unified, and intoxicating.

I have little to say about the ingredients used in Kyara Koko, because they are largely undetectable to me as individual components. Rather, Koko radiates a whole fragrance,  a sweet-spicy Oudiness with civet-like undertones. The end result is a deliciously incensey fragrance. Incense lovers really have much to look forward to in this perfume. In terms of color, think purple. Deep purple. For an Oud-based perfume, I find that Koko beautifully expresses its Oudiness while also blending in well, making for a deliciously smooth and well-rounded fragrance.

What also stands out to me in Kyara Koko is its tenacity. It may be the most tenacious perfume I have smelled from Ensar Oud so far. Radiating on my wrist, Koko surrounds me in its fragrant aura. And I can smell its remnants on my wrist the next morning. I really love a perfume that can maintain itself like this. I have found myself addicted to this perfume as of late, discovering something else with each new wearing.

Kyara Koko is a full-bodied perfume of mystery and confidence, suitable for man or woman, and great to wear out in the evening. Its sensual and aristocratic vibe is sure to catch the attention of anyone who crosses its path.

Encens Imperial

Posted on by
Reply

EncensImperial

Encens Imperial is the most unusual Indian Oud I have smelled so far. The fragrance catches me off guard when it opens with a very potent top note. As the opening aroma meets my nose, I am greeted with an incredibly strong and crystalline aroma that smells almost medicinal and that is initially off-putting. By describing it as “medicinal”, I am intending to convey something of its potency, depth, and healing potential, as well as its “concentrated” aroma. After all, Oud has been used as medicine in the ancient healing traditions of the East–and when I smell a note like this, I remember why. It is one of the strongest notes I have encountered in an Oud oil so far.

This mysterious crystalline note is shrouded by a more traditional Indian aroma of sweet hay and woods, and a gentle barnyard tease. But as I smell my wrist over and over again, it is that top note that I am constantly reaching for. And it is quite playful–sometimes elusive, and at other times floating at the top, or sinking underneath the base notes, only to be found in the last seconds of the inhalation. As the fragrance unfolds, I realize that this mysterious “top note” actually pervades the aroma, top to bottom.

Within minutes, I am addicted to the singing clarity of Encens Imperial. It is an Indian Oud that possesses the clarity, beauty, and sensuality of the finest Borneo Ouds without sacrificing its Indian roots. Usually with Indian Oud, the woods, the hay, the resin, all of it mixes together into a “thick” fragrance. Yet Encens Imperial maintains a smooth, water-like clarity, without compromising any tenacity or potency.

In the official description for Encens Imperial, Ensar writes:

There might be no Kyara in Assam. But only in Assam do you find Muana, a heart note of serenity not even Kyara can capture, and just as rare. You might have smelled it when burning crazy-grade Assam wood chips, but pick it up in an oud oil… this is a first.

So what is Muana? It is hard for me to say exactly what Ensar means by using this term. In my own feeling, Muana is the defining aroma of Encens Imperial. It is that mysterious crystalline note at the heart of Encens Imperial that will puzzle your olfactory sensibilities. In its opening, it is the clearest top note I have ever smelled in an Indian Oud. As it wears, it dances and blends into the woodier undertones, and I’m smelling highly-resinated Oud chips on my wrist. This is my best guess as to what Muana refers to.

In the drydown, Encens Imperial emerges as more of a unified composition. Everything has integrated, revealing a deep and resinous profile, with accents of spice and a defined woodiness. The end result? The intoxicating aroma of incense-grade Indian Oud chips on your wrist.

Oud as incense has been the theme and goal of Ensar’s most recent releases. He has been emphasizing the true goal of Oud distillation as Oud oil that smells like incense. By incense, I feel he means a purity of scent. And Encens Imperial certainly fits into that category with its clear piercing aroma.

Ensar’s Indian Oud oils are undeniably his most diverse offerings–each one is a world of its own. So far, I have yet to smell any two that are similar. I think back to Legends such as Oud Mostafa and Oud Nuh. Encens Imperial is not the bottle I personally would reach for when I want to wear an Indian Oud. It is not as smooth and balanced as some of Ensar’s other Indian oils. Rather, Encens Imperial is an Oud I would save more for medicinal or meditative use. Assam lovers will find something very atypical in Encens Imperial, as it smells nothing like my other Assam oils. I almost forgot it was from Assam.

Clear, beautiful, and potent enough to be healing–Encens Imperial is an oil for the adventurous to explore.

But Muana doesn’t end with Encens Imperial, as I recently received a sample of an unreleased oil called “Muana LTD”…

Crassna Cha: Oud For Tea Connoisseurs

Posted on by
1

Tea drinkers rejoice! The Oud oil you have been waiting for has finally arrived. Have you ever considered treating yourself to a swipe of the finest Oud oil while sipping exquisite China Green tea? Maybe you already have a few Oud oils that you feel pairs nicely with your tea. Maybe you have thought about swiping some Oud with your tea, but never found a way to realize your vision. With Crassna Cha, you no longer have to wonder anymore. The Oud for tea connoisseurs is finally here.

The name of this oil is a give-away. Crassna Cha. I was, of course, curious to see if the scent lived up to its name. Could an Oud oil really smell like green tea? What would that really smell like? I couldn’t imagine it. I knew green notes in Oud, but nothing that resembled tea green so far. Undoubtedly, Crassna Cha is the first oil in which I have smelled a true tea green note, and surprisingly in a Cambodi.

When I first applied a swipe, I began to quickly perceive what Ensar was talking about when he described Crassna Cha as possessing the “cleanest, greenest scent” he’s smelled in any Oud. Somehow, it does smell just like a fresh steeping of high quality green tea. It is that bitter green aroma with a kind of buttery finish. As a testament to the power of aroma, as I smelled the aroma of Crassna Cha, my teeth actually began to lightly clench, as they do when I have a strong cup of green tea. My body was temporarily put under the illusion of having taken caffeine!

I was now ready to combine Crassna Cha with my favorite green tea. It was a beautiful harmony–the green tea and swipe of Crassna Cha became perfect complements, as the aroma of Oud began to exalt the experience. Having Oud oil with your tea adds a totally new dimension to the experience, and I can’t recommend it enough. Best in the morning with some fruits–the breakfast of Royalty.

That is the other aspect of Crassna Cha’s scent profile–fruits. It takes some time for the fruitiness to become completely clear, but eventually Crassna Cha begins to resemble the characteristic fruitiness of Cambodian oils. After a while, I smell peaches, apricots, and honeydew all on top of the tea green base. And from the onset, Crassna Cha has that background mineral note that is present in all the Thai oils I have smelled so far.

What I really like about Crassna Cha is that it develops quite nicely. It is always a pleasure to stay with an oil that shows you something different throughout the day, and not all oils have that quality. For that reason, I have to say that while Crassna Cha might be slow-developing, it defies the conventions of being a linear oil. On top of that, it is a very young oil. I am anxious to see where Crassna Cha goes within a few years. Additionally, Crassna Cha reveals an interesting woodiness in the dry down. Almost musty, it is like the aroma of old wood shavings, or an aged book.

I recommend Crassna Cha to all tea drinkers, and to anyone who has not yet encountered a tea green Oud. Additionally, Crassna Cha is an interesting story of organic cultivation, and demonstrates what artisanal distillation can do to the wood of a mature Aquilaria tree.

Oud Yusha: Cambodia’s Fruit Bowl

Posted on by
1

Oud Yusha. A very fruity Cambodian oil that is deeply resinous and honey-sweet. If you can hear and feel the word “Yusha” then you have an audible allegory for its fragrance. It is very much like strawberry jam. The notes of amber are really nice and bright, making this an upbeat and lively oil.

Yusha smells nearly identical to Agar Aura’s Oud Kampuchea. But Yusha’s fruits are darker, and its amber notes are more pronounced. Altogether, Yusha is a livelier and brighter oil–a younger sister of Oud Kampuchea.

What is really worth noting here is that Oud Yusha was distilled from organically cultivated agarwood, and that Kampuchea was distilled from wild agarwood that was approximated to have an infection of 7-9 years. The mere facts of these oils would have one envisioning two totally different scents. And yet, we have nearly identical oils.

This is not to say that organic oils are identical to wild oils. That is a unique play between these two oils in particular, somehow. But it is deeply suggestive of the potential of organic Oud.

Oud Yusha lets me forget about “organic” and “wild”, and just revel in the beauty of artisanally distilled Oud oil of the highest quality. A fruity gem–I recommend Oud Yusha to all lovers of fruity Cambodian oils, as Yusha epitomizes the fruity-Cambodian profile. Start your day with Oud Yusha, you won’t regret it!

Cultivation: Trat
Crafted: July 2010
Yield: 22 tolas
Price: $250 (currently on sale for $229.95)

Oud Yusuf: A Floral Dream

Posted on by
5

Oud Yusuf is an instant favorite, leaving me immediately spell-bound and constantly wanting more of its rapturous aroma. What a gentle Oud with so much character. Yusuf is a distillation masterpiece. The ethical standards and sheer artistic vision that went into Yusuf, make it a shining example of artisanal Oud oil. The fragrance is clean, clear, and elegantly punctuated with the freshness of florals. This is the floral Oud of my dreams.

I have never smelled lilacs or lilies, but there are clear and watery floral notes in Yusuf that are impossible to miss. In its higher register, there is a note of Violet Leaf piercing through the body of the oil, but so subtly that it even seems to barely lurk there. The florals are white, purple, and light blue.

However, Oud Yusuf is unmistakably Cambodian in its harmony of sweet juicy fruits. Apricot pervades the oil and remains constant amidst its evolution. Peaches lurk and mingle behind it. Ensar’s mention of honeydew is also very accurate.

Yusuf is “light” in the sense that it has a very feminine quality. It is soft, it nearly caresses its wearer, and draws one into a sensual domain that even epitomizes the finest Borneo oils. But this oil is potent and is definitely not invisible on the skin.

I can now resonate with why Ensar was applying Yusuf four to five times a day. It is among the most addictive Oud oils I have ever smelled. Absolutely delicious, succulent, beautiful. Yusuf gives me visions of a lotus pond under a cool night, surrounded by the air of plumerias, and mist of a freshly-fallen light rain.

Easily one of the finest Oud oils I have smelled, I can see why Ensar projects its maturation equaling and perhaps even exceeding that of Borneo 3000. Oud Yusuf is an oil to remember, an oil to truly enjoy and savor. The “powdered woody finish” was most unexpected, but Yusuf does ultimately yield a sweet powdery woodiness that does not leave behind any of the fruits or flowers. Absolutely gorgeous. No one should miss out on Oud Yusuf, especially for its price, it is a gift to the agarwood world and a sign of ethical harvestation.

Cultivation: Trat
Crafted: 2011
Yield: 115 tolas
Price: $250 (on sale for $229.95)

Oud Idrees: Sunshine In A Bottle

Posted on by
2

Oud Idrees is an oil that deserves a worthy introduction. A truly unique offering to the agarwood world, Oud Idrees represents a hallmark in the history of Oud oil. I did not know much about this oil when Ensar first mentioned it to me. All he said was that it was one of his favorite Oud oils, and that it was like “sunshine in a bottle”. His words were striking and left me curious. Sunshine in a bottle? I tried to imagine the fragrance of the vision, but could not even scratch the surface of it. I reserved my bottle soon afterwards, sensing the uniqueness of the oil. It was not until reading Ensar’s description of this recently-launched oil that I began to feel a reverence for this sacred oil.

Oud Idrees is the only Oud oil to come from Bhutan that I am aware of. As Ensar describes, Bhutan’s government has strict policies that protect its jungles, making it nearly impossible to distill Oud oil from their trees. Here we have the first great wonder of Idrees: How did Ensar and his distiller manage to acquire trees from Bhutan? 

However, this is not the only wonder. The jungle in Bhutan from which Idrees originates is home to pristine Aquilaria Agallocha trees, at least 100 years old. Due to the government’s policies, the agarwood trees in these jungles have been untouched, and have been allowed to mature indefinitely, not subject to the gross consumerism that now pervades the Oud world and threatens the future of the oil. In Oud Idrees, we have Oud oil from trees that are at least 100 years old. The wonder is that it is actually true, and not a superficially stated marketing ploy. The number “100” has become a standard form of reference in the Oud world to give the superficial impression that the oil is necessarily superior. To my knowledge, Idrees is the only oil I have come across that can be confirmed as having been distilled from the wood of trees that were at least 100 years old.

But there are 100 year old trees still standing that may or may not have any infection, and thus may not have any aromatic resin at all. In that sense, the age of the tree is completely irrelevant. How do we know that Oud Idrees is the most mature Oud oil we may have ever seen? One word. Ghubal. What is ghubal? “Ghubal” is the term used to refer to the ultimate maturation of the resin in the heartwood of the tree. This maturity is evidenced in the semi-hardening of the resin. This is what “sinking-grade” wood actually refers to.  As Ensar writes of Idrees, “Rather than Oud oil, Idrees is pure ghubal, bottled.” That itself is another wonder. But one more perplexing fact remains: Ghubal is nearly impossible to extract. And so we have our final wonder: how was Idrees distilled?

These wonders remain a mystery, and these wonders do not necessitate knowledge. The fragrance is truly wonderful, a wondrous aroma, aromatically transmitting with it the mysteries that fill it.

So what does Oud Idrees smell like? Idrees boldly expresses its Indian profile, leaving no room for speculation or doubt that it is an Indian oil. Idrees opens with notes of deep delectable resinous bliss. My attention moves upwards and I feel moved beyond the world, held in the arms of this intoxicating fragrance. The more I smell, the more I feel drawn into contemplation, as if the smelling of the oil itself were a meditation. Its effect is immediate and unforgettable. My mind sings its praises. Truly, that first smell is everything. What a moment!

Idrees is a very mature and full-bodied oil that develops in pronounced phases. After revealing its resinous succulence, Idrees begins to show its bright heart. Sunlight. Yes, this is what it is to smell sunlight, to feel its brilliant rays pervading all the senses. Idrees has a very bright and expansive energy, it is the one Oud oil I could characterize as having  the strongest quality of radiance. Oud Idrees is pure light. Its fragrance fills the body and mind with visions of gold and all-encompassing light. Idrees has a mood that is completely unique and absolutely contagious. It is the mood of happiness, of delight, joy, wonder. And yet it is not naive. Idrees is the fragrant vision of the Romantic poets–a beautiful meadow under a clear sky of brilliant sun, grassy hills active with the silent mindless purity of animals and the song of birds symphonic all-around. But the idealism of the Romantics is met with a wisdom and groundedness that gives Idrees its balanced expression. The inherent unity of the outer world and the intuition of its resonance with our deepest heart is brought to fragrant life in Oud Idrees.

Indeed, Idrees comes from a tree, a life-form that has been deeply rooted in the Earth for a century, nourished by sunlight. Oud Idrees is a profound expression of the inner dimension of the natural world, and its fragrance opens an intuition in us all of the Divine Sustenance in which this world is non-separately arising.

While revealing the experiential truth behind Ensar’s statement that Idrees was “sunshine in a bottle”, this oil also perfectly matches Ensar’s description of it as “the embodiment of sheer sunlight and fragrant pollen“. Yes, the notes of pollen are quite astounding. I have never encountered the smell of pollen in an Oud oil, or any oil for that matter. And it is not the smell of honey. It is far more earthy than the essential smell of honey. It is the sweetness of the natural world in play, the sweetness that precedes the nectarous essence of honey. A beautiful fragrance. This sunlight-pollen note is the heart of Oud Idrees.

The resinous current flows up and around and all through this lighted heart. After some time, the resinous aspect of the fragrance becomes noticeably similar to amber. Suddenly, we have a beautiful mix, a converging of notes in a perfection of spontaneous harmony. Resin, sunlight, pollen, amber–all at once and moving, pulsating with an irresistible life. As the amber becomes apparent, the balsamic bottom of the oil also comes to surface. If I were to summarize the notes in Idrees: Resinous-amber, sunlit pollen, balsamic spiciness, and a powderiness in the dry-down.

To my nose, the orchestration of notes in Idrees sing a tuneful melody that is irresistible. Since receiving my bottle, I have worn it twice a day for two days. Never have I applied an Oud oil so frequently as Idrees.

While Idrees is unabashedly Indian, it has a totally unique scent profile, if one is to examine it as a totality. It opens with notes of deep resin that keep rising from the oil, and this is a shared characteristic with legendary Indian oils such as Oud Mostafa, Oud Nuh, and Oud Khidr. Idrees does not display any barnyard notes, as do the aforementioned oils. Nor does Idrees exhibit any fruity notes, as in the case of Mostafa.

Idrees matches Mostafa in its aromatic profundity, maturity, power, and resinous delight. Idrees matches Nuh in its balance, its perfection, its sense of harmony and gentle unfolding, and its royal elegance.
Idrees matches Khidr in its depth, its raw and primordial character, and deep distinct resinous notes.

Oud Idrees is the most unique Oud oil I have come across so far. Truly, it defies categorization and mere description. Idrees stands strong among the greatest Oud oils ever distilled, and is one of my favorites. I highly recommend all Oud lovers acquire and get to know this oil, it is a true gem to add to a collection, especially for lovers of Indian Oud. Idrees is an Oud to cherish for ages to come.

Above the clouds, There Is Always The Sun–Forever Free Of Earthly weather.
–His Divine Presence, Avatar Adi Da Samraj

Jungle: Bhutan
Crafted: May 2009
Yield: 15 tolas
Price: $550
Status: LTD